Posted by: Jenn
So our plush VIP leather seats were nice until we had a rude awakening at around six in the morning. Both of us were resting peacefully when all of sudden we heard this loud shattering sound. Not sure if we were dreaming, we slowly came to and checked our surroundings. Jonathan thought someone had thrown ice on him until we felt a rush of air coming from the bus window. It was then that we realized that the window had shattered, spraying tiny pieces of glass all over us. Luckily the curtain was closed so that retained most of the glass. We informed the bus driver and he pulled over to try to figure out what had happened. We were cruising down a desolate highway and it was a side window, so it couldn't have been a rock; I think the window was just faulty.
So our plush VIP leather seats were nice until we had a rude awakening at around six in the morning. Both of us were resting peacefully when all of sudden we heard this loud shattering sound. Not sure if we were dreaming, we slowly came to and checked our surroundings. Jonathan thought someone had thrown ice on him until we felt a rush of air coming from the bus window. It was then that we realized that the window had shattered, spraying tiny pieces of glass all over us. Luckily the curtain was closed so that retained most of the glass. We informed the bus driver and he pulled over to try to figure out what had happened. We were cruising down a desolate highway and it was a side window, so it couldn't have been a rock; I think the window was just faulty.
Anyways, we were moved to new seats and tried to leave most of the glass behind. However, Jonathan was certain that some had gotten in his eye. When we arrived to the Buenos Aires bus station, we went straight to the bus company's counter and explained to them what happened thinking that we could get a free bus ride, or a free doctors visit for Jonathan's eye. Because the company didn't want a complaint filed against them, they grabbed one of their luggage loaders to accompany us to the doctor to front the bill. He flagged a cab and took us to an urgent care center specializing in eye issues. The doctor diagnosed Jonathan with having six cuts on his eye, put some eye drops in it and told him to wear a patch for one day so the cuts could begin healing.
The luggage loader then paid for our lunch (four hotdogs with the works) and the cab to the place we were staying. The bus company redeemed themselves by taking good care of us and we don't plan on filing a complaint. Jonathan's eye is now healed and he can see just fine, in case you were wondering.
On to Buenos Aires! Our experience in BA was very different than in other cities we have visited. We couch surfed with a couple from BA. Couch surfing is an organization created by backpackers interested in getting a more cultural experience when visiting somewhere. There is a website (www.couchsurfing.org) where you can search a network of people interested in hosting travelers and you message them to see if they have a spare couch or room available for the time frame you plan to be in that place. We got very lucky because our couch request was accepted by a couple from BA, Gaston and Maru, and they could not have been better hosts.
On to Buenos Aires! Our experience in BA was very different than in other cities we have visited. We couch surfed with a couple from BA. Couch surfing is an organization created by backpackers interested in getting a more cultural experience when visiting somewhere. There is a website (www.couchsurfing.org) where you can search a network of people interested in hosting travelers and you message them to see if they have a spare couch or room available for the time frame you plan to be in that place. We got very lucky because our couch request was accepted by a couple from BA, Gaston and Maru, and they could not have been better hosts.
We spent our first night with them just visiting and talking about their culture and lifestyle. It was very interesting hearing what they had to say and understanding how different our cultures are. Jonathan found the politics and economics most interesting and because I'm not as good as he is with retaining information, I'm going to let him debut in this blog post.
Jonathan:
Staying with Gaston and Maru afforded us a plethora of insights that we would have missed staying in a hostel. Over several dinners and bottles of Argentinian wine we discussed everything from politics to economics. A few topics I found most interesting were:
- Public university's are free for anyone from anywhere and if you have a beating heart, you can get in. Downside - the university in BA has 300,000 students. Years ago, these government funded universities were top notch, but over the past couple of years they have begun backsliding and will continue to unless their funding changes.
- There is a 21% tax on consumables. It's included in the price on the shelf so that you never see it but knowing it's there, hurts.
- In the states the majority of people have jobs which the government taxes and few people's sole paycheck is under the table. In Argentina it is much harder to get "legal employment". Maru has been working since she was 18 (she is now 30) and was only legally employed once for two years. Being legally employed means you get retirement saving options, health care, and most importantly credit, which allows you to get a loan. Gaston and Maru were battling for a loan while we were staying with them - they own their home (paid off), they both have steady paychecks (not legal employment though), and they had the loan amount in their savings and still couldn't get approved.
- To illustrate the issues that legal employment causes - case in point - the day we arrived in BA, train workers were on strike because they wanted legal employment - many have been temp workers for 10+ years. The group that runs the transportation system are sometimes referred to as the "fat ones"; they could be described as a mafia like organization. It is believed someone in their group opened fire on the unarmed train workers on strike, killing one and injuring several others. The "fat ones" are in with the government as they back the current president so many think this is the reason for the police's lethargic response to the shooting. Maru informed us that the following day thousands would take to the streets in a public out cry for justice not only were they going but they invited us to join.
Ok, now back to me:
Our next day in BA was spent exploring the city a little. We took the metro to downtown and wandered the streets.
Jonathan:
Staying with Gaston and Maru afforded us a plethora of insights that we would have missed staying in a hostel. Over several dinners and bottles of Argentinian wine we discussed everything from politics to economics. A few topics I found most interesting were:
- Public university's are free for anyone from anywhere and if you have a beating heart, you can get in. Downside - the university in BA has 300,000 students. Years ago, these government funded universities were top notch, but over the past couple of years they have begun backsliding and will continue to unless their funding changes.
- There is a 21% tax on consumables. It's included in the price on the shelf so that you never see it but knowing it's there, hurts.
- In the states the majority of people have jobs which the government taxes and few people's sole paycheck is under the table. In Argentina it is much harder to get "legal employment". Maru has been working since she was 18 (she is now 30) and was only legally employed once for two years. Being legally employed means you get retirement saving options, health care, and most importantly credit, which allows you to get a loan. Gaston and Maru were battling for a loan while we were staying with them - they own their home (paid off), they both have steady paychecks (not legal employment though), and they had the loan amount in their savings and still couldn't get approved.
- To illustrate the issues that legal employment causes - case in point - the day we arrived in BA, train workers were on strike because they wanted legal employment - many have been temp workers for 10+ years. The group that runs the transportation system are sometimes referred to as the "fat ones"; they could be described as a mafia like organization. It is believed someone in their group opened fire on the unarmed train workers on strike, killing one and injuring several others. The "fat ones" are in with the government as they back the current president so many think this is the reason for the police's lethargic response to the shooting. Maru informed us that the following day thousands would take to the streets in a public out cry for justice not only were they going but they invited us to join.
Ok, now back to me:
Our next day in BA was spent exploring the city a little. We took the metro to downtown and wandered the streets.
The streets were filled with police and barricades in preparation for a rally/riot that was to occur that night.
As the night progressed, sure enough thousands of people marched from the monument to the city center where the Pink House is (their White House). Several different groups were present each toting different signs and wearing different colors but all standing in unity demanding justice.
There is nothing like a good demonstration to work up an appetite, and since we were in BA we had to go get our share of meat. We ended up at a little dive with a huge bar-b-que pit at the entrance of it. I ordered a sausage sandwich with french fries (very safe) and Jonathan ordered a mystery meat variety plate (very sketchy). I'm obviously not brave enough for that. The food came out and I thoroughly enjoyed my sandwich while Jonathan devoured his plate. I must say, there were some pretty interesting looking meats on his pan...one of which was called "Black Pudding". It looked like black sausage, only when you cut into it, this black pudding type stuff squeezed out. I think I can safely say I would not take a million dollars to stick that anywhere near my mouth.
Our last day we decided to visit some more touristy spots. We hit up an area called Boca and walked throught the colorfully painted buildings while watching people tango in the streets.
We also found a McDonalds and I ordered a quarter pounder with cheese. It was oh so good.
When we had had enough sight seeing, we headed back to Gaston and Maru's place with a tub of ice cream and bottle of wine to enjoy with them as a thanks for letting us stay. After the wine and ice cream were thoroughly enjoyed, Jonathan and I packed our bags and headed to the airport for our 5:45 AM flight to El Calafate to see some glaciers and go trekking through the mountains.
Thanks Gaston and Maru!!
We have also updated our budget page so you can see how we are doing. Although Brazil was pricey, I think we are staying on budget...Jonathan might have a different opinion... ;-)
Thanks Gaston and Maru!!
We have also updated our budget page so you can see how we are doing. Although Brazil was pricey, I think we are staying on budget...Jonathan might have a different opinion... ;-)